During the winter our skin is more debilitated through extreme temperature changes: cold wind and dry heated air inside cause humidity imbalance in your skin. Without the proper winter care, skin tends to become dry, itchy and pale. Therefore, if you create your own skin care, you should customize your formula for the winter time.
Higher Oil content
If you have normal or dry skin and you normally use emulsions with the fett phase of 20-25% during spring and summer time, increase the percentage of the oils to 30-35% for winter time. Use oils which are rich in Palmitic Acid (C:16), e.g. pumpkin seed, rice germ, wheat germ and olive oil. You can enhance the formula by adding butters like shea or mango butter.
Consider using unsaponifiables from avocado or olive (squalen) in your formula. Unsaponifiables are the part of oil that cannot be transformed into soap and are considered as active ingredients in the emulsion. In general, less than 2% of the oil’s content is unsaponifiable. The phytosterols contained in the unsaponifiables support the lipid layer of the Stratum Corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis ) and help prevent the evaporation of water. At the same time they have a regenerative effect, increase the elasticity of the skin and strengthen it’s barrier function. Some studies have shown that the action of the unsaponifiables results in the increase of young collagen .
Even if the skin is well moisturized, the temperature changes tend to brake the protection barrier of the skin, which results in Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). In order to prevent it, add Polysaccharides, e.g. Agar or Xanthan Gum as a geling agent or Hyaluronic Acid, to your formula. These active components tend to build a thin elastic layer on the skin that prevents the skin cell from loosing water.
Consider these tips for your winter cream formula and don’t forget to nourish your skin from inside out: include healthy fats in your diet (vegan sources of omega 3-fatty-acids can be found in chia, flax and hemp seeds, walnuts and seaweed). Moisturize from inside – drink plenty of water and include water containing vegetables and fruits in your diet (e.g cucumber, leafy greens, celery, berries and citrus fruits).
I wish you a joyful and pleasant winter time!