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One of my long time dreams was to create a foundation. I somehow avoided this area of tinted creams as it involves pigments, which is a complex area of work. It requires a lot of trials and errrors to find the perfect tone and the perfect cover properties.

But summer came also here in Berlin with its precious sun. I normally avoid direct sunrays, but even, if I dont spend my time at the water in direct sun, I prefer to protect my skin with a light sun protector. And as I love light and fluidy textures in the summer, I decided to combine these sunblocking properties with a nourishng and moisturizing tinted cream. My first BB-Cream was born! 😀

Oil Phase

The process of a BB-Cream formulation is exactly the same as for normal creams apart of the pigment part. The first step is to design the Oil Phase. In this context we need oxidatively stable oils, e.g. Jojoba Oil (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil ). In summer skin tends to perspire more. That offers perfect circumstances for bacteria to grow. Jojoba oil has excelent anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties that make it to a perfect summer carrier oil. Other oils that I decided to use in the formula are broccoli oil and squalane. Broccoli seed oil is light, non-greasy and gets easily absorbed, it’s actually similar in feel to the chemical silicones. Another oil I used, was Squalane (derived from olives). Squalane is a particular oil. Human sebum is comprised of 25% squalane. This is the reason why this oil is so compatible with our skin and penetrates it so well. For some more nourishment and consistency I added shea butter and avocado phytosteroles.

Emulsifier

The second decision was the emulsifier concept. I chose Montanov TM202 ( INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside) and Myristyl Myristate TEGO® MM, which is a Co-emulsifier used in eye creams, lipstick and foundations, adding more consistency to them.

Pigments

Now the heart of the BB-Cream is it’s pigments. As my skin color is pretty bright, I chose the nude pigment mix from the alexmo website (CI 77891, 77491, 77492, 77499 ). I wanted also to add to it some bronzing effect, which would give to the skin this glowing summer look. So I went with the other pigment (purchased also on alexmo website) Colorona® oriental beige (INCI: MICA (mineral), TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDE).

Also I added Zinc Oxide (8 %) to the pigment part, because a BB-Cream should have UV filters. Zinc Oxide is an excellent sunscreen because it has the broadest UV protective spectrum and cannot be absorbed into the blood, unlike the chemical sunscreen. It sits on the top of the skin where it needs to be, effectively providing a layer of armor against damaging UV rays. Moreover, 1% of Zinc Oxide gives around 1-1,5 SPF, so the BB cream comes with total 8-12 SPF, which is a really good protection on a daily basis.

 

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The result

I am more than happy with this formulation. It absorbs fast, evens out the skin tone and leaves a tiny bit of a shimmering glow for the sunkissed look. This formulation can be used in autum and winter too, protecting the skin from the UVA/UVB rays.

My further thoughts are on making an eye concealer just by raising the amount of white pigments in the formula and thus giving the emulsion a stronger covering effect.

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Formula (FP 22%, 50g)

Phase A

4,3 g Jojoba Oil

2,0 g Broccoli Seed Oil

1,5 g Squalane

1,0 g Shea Butter

0,5 g Avocado Phytosteroles

1,0 g Montanov TM202

0,2 g Tego MM

Pigments

2,75 g Nude (5,5%)

0,25 g Oriental beige (0,5%)

4,0 g Zinc Oxide (8%)

Phase B

27,5 g Ylang Ylang Hydrosol (or simply water)

Phase C

2,4 g Glycerin

0,1 g Xanthan Gum

0,01 g Hyaluronic Acid

Phase D

1,0 g Radish Root Ferment (or 0,5 g Rokonsal)

2-3 drops of Lactic Acid

3 drops of Iris Essential Oil

Mix the ingredients of the Phase A and measure the Phase B. Heat both phases to 75° – 80°C.

Pour the Water into the Oil Phase, mix and add the pigments. Disperse with your emulsifying mixer fo 2 minutes.

Let the emulsion to cool down. Dissolve Xanthan Gum and Hyaluronic Acid in the Glycerin. Add all the ingredients of The Phase C into the almost cold emulsion.

Add essential oil (here Iris Oil) and preserve with Leucidal. Measure ph-Balance and if necessary, add a few drops of Lactic Acid. Disperse the cream slowly again with the emulsifying mixer for 30 sec.


In these online-shops you can order the ingredients:

http://www.alexmo-cosmetics.de/

http://www.aroma-zone.com/

Enjoy your nourished and protected sunkissed skin!

Ramina