This winter was pretty hard for my skin: the cold December in Berlin, then 5 weeks in hot India and again return in the cold of Berlin. All these temperature difference made my skin dry and pale. So I decided to create an emulsion formula suitable for the spring. I wanted a rich but at the same time light texture, which absorbs fast and leaves a velvety touch on the skin.

So I went for an Oil-in-Water-Emulsion (in this article I explain the difference between the OW- and WO-Emulsions) and a pretty high percentage of the Oil Phase (30%). As I wanted a rich and not liquidy texture, I decided to use Montanov TM 68 (INCI: Cetearyl Alkohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) and Phospholipon® 80 H (INCI: Hydrogenated Lecithin) as emulsifiers. This combination proved itself many times. The creames become very stable, even at extreme temperatures.

The next step was to analize, which effect I wanted to get from the cream.  Mostly I wanted a calming and nourishing effect and therefore used the following Oils:


Almond Oil: Oil obtained from the kernel of sweet almonds; rich in unsaturated fatty acids; gentle and soothing to the skin. Also almond oil is a good carrier oil, as it has a high smoke point (216°C).

Argan Oil: Rich vegetable oil obtained from argan nuts; strong antioxidant effect, nourishing and gentle to the skin (220°C).

Borage Oil: has strong anti-inflammatory effects; One of the most well-researched uses for borage oil is treating inflammatory skin disorders like eczema. GLA has been shown to correct deficiencies in skin lipids (oils) that are caused by low levels of delta-6-desaturase activity (smoke point 107°C).

Camellia Oil: is derived from the tea seeds. Camellia oil, like green tea is a superb antioxidant. It resists rancidity strongly. It emulsifies easily with other oils and fats. Very high in oleic acid, camellia oil is a powerful oil for fighting free radicals and in it’s anti-inflammatory properties (smoke point 252 ° C).

Rosehip Oil: comes from the seeds of a specific variety of rose, Rosa aff. rubiginosa or Rosa moschata, which is the fruit left behind after a rose has flowered and dropped its petals. It has a high content in vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin D and B-carotene, a form of vitamin A, that makes the Rosehip Oil a powerful antioxidant (is added in the cold emulsion).

Black Cumin Oil: Black cumin seeds come from a plant scientifically called Nigella sativa. It is used especially for oily skin and clogged pores. It has extraordinary soothing abilities and is beneficial for skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis and acne (is added in the cold emulsion).

Shea butter and Avocado Phytosteroles: The phytosterols contained in the unsaponifiables support the lipid layer of the Stratum Corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis ) and help prevent the evaporation of water. At the same time they have a regenerative effect, increase the elasticity of the skin and strengthen it’s barrier function.

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Formula (OP 30%, 50 ML)

Phase A

3,0 g Almond Oil

3,0 g Argan Oil

3,0 g Camellia Oil

2,0 g Borage Oil

1,5 g Shea Butter

0,5 Avocado Phytosteroles

1,5 g Montanov TM68

0,5 g Phospholipon® 80 H

Phase B

29 g Water

Phase C

1,0 g Rosehip Oil

0,5 g Black cumin seed oil

1,0 g Glycerin

0,1 g Xanthan Gum

0,5 g D-Panthenol

0,5 g Fruit Acids

1,0 g Orchid flower Extract

0,3 g Rosemary Extract

Phase D

Bergamot essential oil (5 drops)

1,0 g Leucidal (preservative)

Lactic Acid (3 drops)

Mix the ingredients of the Phase A and measure the Phase B. Heat both phases to 75°C.

Pour the Water into the Oil Phase and disperse with your emulsifying mixer.

Let the emulsion to cool down. Dissolve Xanthan Gum in the Glycerin. Add all the ingredients of The Phase C into the almost cold emulsion.

Add essential oil (here Bergamot Oil) and preserve with Leucidal. Measure ph-Balance and if necessary, add a few drops of Lactic Acid. Disperse the cream again with the emulsifying mixer for 30 sec.


Note that this cream contains some oxidation-sensitive ingredients like Bergamot oil, rosemary extract and fruit acids. Don’t apply this cream before the direct sun exposure in order to avoid the occurrence of dark spots.

In these online-shops you can order the ingredients:

http://www.alexmo-cosmetics.de/

http://www.aroma-zone.com/

Enjoy spring with your luscious moisturizing cream!

Ramina